Makings of the Perfect Shirt |
- Designs Matched
A unique and very special feature of a Coles shirt sold through Jermyn Shirts is that the fabric designs are matched exactly at all points where the different parts of the shirt meet. To give examples, look at the points over and under the collar, over and under the cuffs, the sleeve head, the fronts and the gauntlets.
- Removable Collar Stiffeners
Collar stiffeners are included to keep your collar flat and smooth. These should be removed when washing and ironing the shirt, then replaced to keep the shirt’s collar in prime condition. A spare pair of collar stiffeners will be supplied free of charge at Jermyn Shirts.
- Two Piece Split Yoke
The Yoke across the shoulders of our shirts is constructed in two distinct halves allowing them to come together at an angle thus replicating the sloping nature of men’s shoulders. This creates a perfectly smooth line across the shoulders, which is not possible with a single piece of fabric, a minimum requirement of Jermyn Shirts.
- Two Piece Collar
Our collars are made with a separate Top and Band. They are cut with the joining edge between the band and the top elliptical, thus when sewn together this produces a "spring" which gives the collar a natural tendency both to turn and stay down. This cannot be achieved with a one-piece collar.
- 20 Stitches to the Inch Sewing
All our shirts are sewn with 20 stitches to the inch. By comparison the average is 15. We, therefore, achieve fine, strong and more elegant seams.
- Finest Two Fold Cotton Poplin
- POPLIN - The “Stock in Trade” of quality English shirtmaking. Poplin describes a particular weave that tends to give the surface colours prominence This makes poplin excellent for the sharp checks, stripes and end on ends in which we specialize. The Poplins (broadcloth) that we produce are two fold 100's warp and weft long staple. The quality is outstanding. As far as weight is concerned they would be described as medium rather than heavy.
- TWO FOLD - Mainly relates to poplin whereby two yarns are twisted (folded) together. A single piece of string can be broken but two pieces platted together cannot. This principle allows the yarns to be spun much more finely coupling quality with strength.
- END ON END - A weave whereby the Warp yarn is one colour and the Weft another. When a colour is mixed with white the effect is of a subtle plain colour. When two different colours are mixed a strong vibrant plain colour is produced.
- HERRINGBONE – A Twill weave normally made using a softer yarn that runs in lines of opposing direction giving a zigzag effect. Yarns lay on the surface giving this fabric a particularly lustrous look.
- Multiple Sleeve Lengths
Depending on the collar size of the shirt, various sleeve lengths are available. These range from 32" (81 cm) (very short) to 37" (94 cm) (very long). Please refer to our sizing guide for collar size/sleeve length options. Sleeves can be shortened to a specific length at a cost of £8.50 per shirt. In the event that your sleeve length is longer that those we produce in your collar size, contact us to discuss your requirements.
- Single Needle Stitching
Our Men’s shirts are sewn throughout using a single needle sewing machine not dissimilar to that which you would use at home. This is the traditional but a costly way of doing things. It produces very fine but very strong seams. Quite simply our ‘ready made’ shirts are made in the same way as our ‘bespoke’ shirts.
- Pearl Buttons
We only use pearl button on our shirts. No other buttons can reproduce their translucent elegance. You can easily tell mother-of-pearl by its lovely iridescent colour, which when you compare to plastic (even pearlised plastic), the latter looks dull and yellowy in comparison. This is especially apparent on a a classic white shirt.
- Gauntlet
Our men’s shirts feature an over and under gauntlet. This consists of two pieces of fabric either side of the sleeve opening above the cuff. These keep the sleeve together in wear and prevent “gaping.” This does away with the need to have a “button in gauntlet” which is a cheaper option often used to keep the sleeve closed when gauntlets have been dispensed with.
- Rounded Cuffs
Coles’ men’s shirt cuffs are rounded to prevent them from getting caught on the edge of the jacket as it moves over the cuffs of the shirt. Despite the fact that this is more difficult to sew than a square cuff, it is, in our view, an important quality feature.
- Horizontal Bottom Button
Allows movement across your hips.
- Butterfly Gusset
All of our men’s shirts are made with a small “butterfly” gusset in the side tail. This is a small but very strong gusset as opposed to the simple piece of fabric used in some cases. In addition to adding strength it also contours the back tail of the shirt.
- Spare Buttons
While pearl buttons can be purchased at all good haberdasheries, extra pearl buttons are provided for in the tail of the shirt. If you require further buttons please contact us directly. We use a ’14 Line’ button for the collar and ’16 Line’ button for the rest. Both are supplied.
- Buttons sewn with Crossed Lockstitch
Buttons are sewn on with a crossed lock stitch, to prevent them becoming loose.
Handmade Silk Ties
All our ties are made out of 100% Pure Silk woven in England and are again all hand made in England.
The quality of the silk is exceptional. The reason we stress 100% Pure Silk is that woven silks from Italy, which are used by many people, are what are called "Weighted Silks". What they do is to coat the silk with a metal to give it the impression of being heavier than it actually is. In the case of our silks there is no weighting. It is all the real thing.
HANDMADE FOR EXCELLENCE
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